Almost all older cars have a common problem: rust. Therefore, with this article, we want to give you the knowledge on how to remove rust from your car, repair rust spots on the car and prevent it from spreading further. Because what is only an optical defect at the beginning can quickly develop into a wildfire and even a security risk. So that you don't always have to visit a workshop immediately for rust treatment, this article will give you an insight into the possibilities and explain how, for example, a rust converter can be used on your vehicle. So it's good to know that you can help yourself to some extent.
Contents
Which areas are affected most frequently?
In the seventies and eighties of the last millennium there were still plenty of them – real rust buckets. In the meantime, however, production techniques and processing quality have improved significantly, especially in the area of vehicle bodies. Modern cars are usually much better protected against rust than the models from those past times. This is due in particular to the significantly improved cavity sealing and a technique known as cathodic dip painting, KTL for short. However, there are some typical weak points where it may be necessary to treat rust on the car. These areas to be particularly observed include the flanged edges, all water drains, the rear ends, the wheelhouse edges and wheelhouses, the bonnet, the sockets for the jack and sheet metal parts with rubber edges. The reasons for the problems are, for example, stones thrown up, road dust or shy body movements. But don't worry, we'll explain the basics so that you can remove the rust from the car yourself.
What can I do against rust?
The first stage of a rust spot is usually the so-called flash rust. You can usually easily tackle this with a paint polish or simply wipe it off with a little oil. Afterwards, a thorough vehicle cleaning in the car wash is recommended. An appropriate protective seal should also be applied, but this only lasts for a certain amount of time. For this reason, this must be repeated regularly in order to prevent or at least slow down the progression of rust.
Advanced rust removal from cars
In many cases, however, you will also find yourself in the situation of having to repair more serious rust spots. Deep scratches, heavy stone chips or other scratches are often responsible for this. In such a case, you first use a very fine sandpaper to remove rust from the edges of the rust spot. Then treat the rust surface in the same way. If you feel like the rust is very deep, you may need to use what is called a rust converter for the car. You should use this exactly according to the manufacturer's specifications and be extremely economical with it. The reason for this is that you definitely don't want to damage the vehicle's paintwork. These agents work on the principle of converting the rust into chemical compounds that are stable and do not „crumb off“. In this way, the corrosion cannot progress any further. The subsequent cleaning is best done with a so-called silicone remover. Visually, after drying, the spot is given a thin coat of paint with a touch-up pen. This in turn is sealed with clear varnish at the end. The drying of these layers usually takes a few days. Finally, you polish the spot.
What do I do with pitting?
If the corrosion has progressed so far that real holes have formed or if the affected body part is no longer stable, a much more intensive treatment is necessary to remove this rust on your vehicle. In the first place, grinding is required. The aim is to reach a bare sheet of metal. Various tools are available for this step. Which of these are most useful ultimately depends on the size of the affected area. While smaller areas can often be treated quite well with a wire brush, the use of a multifunction grinder or even an angle grinder can be indicated for larger areas. A rust converter is then used again to treat the rust of the car in order to reliably prevent the further advance of corrosion. Before using it, it has to be cleaned with a suitable silicone remover. Also remember to follow the instructions for use of the rust converter exactly, for example in terms of after-treatment. Washing off with water can be just as necessary as simply drying off. After cleaning again with silicone remover, the hole can now be closed again. Often, however, this is a matter for the professionals – in principle, both the use of filler and the welding in of new sheet metal are suitable. Especially when welding, in addition to the special technique, a certain amount of sensitivity is required, so you should only try it yourself if you are very familiar with it. Not infrequently, amateur screwdrivers have already enlarged the holes with the welding device instead of eliminating them. After sealing, the welding edges are ground and straightened and the sheet metal surfaces are pre-treated. Depending on the type of hole, it may also be necessary to combine different techniques or to fill and sand several times. The surface treatment is carried out with a so-called primer, which ensures that the layers of paint applied later also adhere securely. The final coat of paint is applied in at least two layers: first the colored paint and then the clear coat. In compliance with the appropriate drying times, it is polished and sealed again.
Conclusion
Removing rust from a car is not rocket science. Nevertheless, you need the proverbial fine instinct to achieve really good results. The steps we have described here give you a first starting point to decide whether you want to do it yourself or visit a specialist workshop. In the case of pitting, in particular, we recommend that you contact professionals.
A tip from CarTipsandmore: If you have problems with rust, you should act as early as possible. This is the only way to prevent major damage, which can only be repaired with great effort or, under certain circumstances, no longer at all. If you do not trust yourself to handle it yourself, then the trip to the specialist workshop should not be put off. This is the only way to avoid unnecessary problems.
